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| The view of downtown Richmond from the Maury Street bridge over the River James. (Photo by Eileen Faust) |
The hulking brick behemoths of industry that squat on the southern shore of the James River are being turned into trendy, lofty apartments and studios for the many artists flocking to this creative city.
Across from this section, called Manchester and once reminiscent of that British industrial center, is the cobblestoned neighborhood that carries Richmond's sullied past of dealing in human flesh. Old brick hotels and coffee, tea and tobacco warehouses that sport freshly repainted company names are now filled with apartments, offices and trendy eateries and shops.
This area used to be called the Shockoe Valley. Well, that used to be the name of the river. The section to the west of Hull Street Bridge is now called Shockoe Bottom, and to the east it's Shockoe Slip.
Head straight north on Hull Street and you hit the Capitol Buildings and the hospital, and Broad Street. West on Broad is the University District and Museum District. Running along the north bank of the river is the central vein of quirkiness in the city: Cary Street. Here you'll find boutiques, unique shops and novel dining establishments.
MANCHESTER
View Old Town Manchester guide in a larger map
Streets
More modern than elsewhere in Richmond, though mind the potholes. It is an industrial area and you will sometimes compete with tractor-trailers on the road. Parking is scarce and on the street here. (Only 50cc scooters can park on the sidewalk. Read more here: http://www.scootrichmond.com/scooters/sidewalk-parking.html) Be careful venturing too far south of Commerce Boulevard. The neighborhoods are a little rough for tourists.Best Eats:
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| The courtyard of Plant Zero Cafe. (Photo by Eileen Faust) |
Located right over the bridge from Shockhoe Bottom, this cafe offers an indoor/outdoor seating area in an old warehouse. The small courtyard offers space for scooter parking and a fountain where you can hang out. Don't miss the attached art gallery/studio space where you can purchase handmade items as well as amazing artwork.
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Legend Brewing, West 7th Street
This German restaurant offers great brews made on the premises as well as a variety of sausage dishes, along with traditional southern barbecue sandwiches. (Yum!) Don't forget the potato salad. Offers ample parking in its lot and along the perimeter street as well as a great wooden deck overlooking the River James and the Norfolk Southern lines. Spent one lunch hour watching in fascination as a crew unloaded coal.
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Croakers, Hull Street
I've never been, but it appears to be a happenin' spot in the otherwise desolate main street of Old Town Manchester. Parking is in the back.
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Worth A Visit:
Old Dominion Railway Museum, Maury StreetNever got the chance to visit. Opened in late 2011. Trains are the backbone of Richmond's industry, which was one of the most important ports in the Old South.
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| Watch artists work and perform in the gallery studios at Plant Zero. (Photo by Eileen Faust) |
ArtSpace, Plant Zero and Art 180, Maury Street
All three large art galleries are in the same connected warehouse space. You can watch artists work here and buy anything hanging on the walls. The prices range from really steep to unusually reasonable. The artistic offerings range from paintings to jewelry and household goods such as stools, bowls and ornate hardware. One Friday a month they hold an open house event with cheese and wine. (No entry fee)
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| The outside of Caravati's Architectural Salvage, Old Manchester. (Photo by Eileen Faust) |
This business specializes in salvaged architectural items from some of Richmond's oldest homes. Ramble through its two stories and be sure to check out some of its gems including old pillars, and a very ornately carved bed closet (if it's still there). If I had a house, I would've cleaned out the place. Small items you could easily take with you on a scooter: elaborate key plates for front doors and unique glass lampshades for porch lights.
Scoot Richmond, West 7th Street
No scooter tour should go without stopping at the local experts to check out what they offer. I bought a nice pair of leather gloves here. They specialize in the Italian brands Vespa, Piaggio and Stella, as well as Genuine Buddy Scooters. Be sure to check out the neighboring repair shop where there is usually a long line of unique mopeds from the late 70s and early 80s.
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| Flood wall walk on the Manchester side of Richmond. (Photo by Eileen Faust) |
Flood Wall Walk, Maury Street
This paved walking path travels from Ancarrow's Landing, where the slaves would be unloaded before being taken for sale in Shockhoe, to Brown's Island, a popular hiking spot and former Civil War prison site. It is part of the Slave Trail, which follows the path slaves took and historic markers are found along the way. Ancarrow's is a popular picnicking and fishing spot for the locals. You'll also find many people fishing along the trail on the stone berms fronting the flood walls (which have never been used since they were built).
SHOCKOE BOTTOM AND SLIP
Streets
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| Ancient cobblestones don't make for the best riding experience but they do add to Shockoe Bottom's ambiance. (Photo by Eileen Faust) |
Cobblestoned. Yeah, they'll jar you. Parking on the street, though you can get away with parking on the sidewalk as long as you respect the rule of staying out of pedestrian pathways and don't chain your scooter to signs or public property. There are public pay lots, but they are gravel, not the best for scooter parking. In the Slip area, the streets tend toward modern and paved and you are better off parking in the street or at the farmers market as the sidewalks aren't as wide.
Best Eats:
There's lot to enjoy in the Bottom and Slip. It's the heart of the old town and close to the capital and financial districts so you'll have your share of higher end eateries and fast food southern style. Here are the ones I thought were great, though I didn't have time to eat at them all. (Share your recommendations in the comments section if you've been here.)
Poe's Pub
2706 E. Main St.
This pub often has live music. Their food is good, traditional home cooking, but the portions are huge. Expect to take half home with you. I recommend the meatloaf and potatoes. It's never been packed when I've visited, but oddly enough, you always run into someone you know here. In fact, my boy ran into two people who attended his hometown high school a few years behind him who also happened to be living in Richmond. It's named after the author who spent some time growing up with a family further north on Main Street when he was a child.
GlobeHopper
2100 E. Main St.
A great spot for coffee. Subdued. They have a cute little slightly unkempt back garden where you can sit. (My preferred spot.) The view may have changed since I've been there because there was a great deal of development on Main. They are also a spot for a local CSA group. (Being the south they also serve liquor here. So if you want your coffee a little Irish, you can get it.)
Lulu's
21 N. 17th St.
The perfect Sunday brunch spot. Great Mimosas and perfectly cooked eggs and potatoes. (You can also go totally southern Sunday brunch and get the chicken fried steak.) It can get packed but don't worry, there are plenty of options nearby.
River City Diner
7 N. 17th St.
Everything you would want out of a diner, plus you can watch your food being made. Booth seats on the lower level, larger tables up top. It's an interesting layout with unique, antique decor.
Rosie Connolly's Pub
1548A E. Main St.
Located on the other side of the 17th Street Farmer's Market, this truly Irish pub is tucked in between Havana's and an old brick building. You could easily miss it, but it offers outdoor dining. (Though the screeching trains passing by on one of the old lines could ruin your experience.) The proprietor is from the old country and knows how to pour a pint. The pub is what you first walk into and offers many nooks great for having a private conversation and not being overwhelmed by others' conversations. I highly recommend the bangers and mash.
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| City Dogs offers great taste on a bun. (Photo by Eileen Faust) |
City Dogs
1316 E. Cary St.
Want a great hot dog outside of Pa. and NJ? City Dogs is your joint. They have all the traditional topping combinations plus some unique ones of their own. It's small and tends to get packed. It offers a full bar. Tasty, tasty, tasty.
Sine Irish Pub
1327 E. Cary St.
This large pub offers both indoor and outdoor seating options, and sometimes sets up an extra tent to accommodate the crowds that come out on weekends to enjoy the plentiful music offerings. I've never been but I hear it's good.
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